Turn on your car, turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. Now remove the four – T25 screws in the driver side front wheel well. Turn your wheel all the way to the left, repeat the same process for the four screws. Save these eight screws, we will reuse them.

Remove the six - T25 screws that hold the front splash tray in place from underneath the car. Save these screws, we wont reinstall for this product, but it is great to have a few spares around. They are the same as the wheel liner screws. 

Remove the three T30 bolts. Driver side and center shown, also remove passenger side. 

Pop the hood. Looking at the top of the grill, pull up on the release knob. It is only held in place with a splined shaft.

Remove the pop clips along the front edge. Use a trim tool to remove the center pin (right), then remove the clip body from the panel (left). 

Remove these two T25 screws. One on each side. 

Apply some painters tape along the bottom of the headlight and fender to protect your paint. Have a few pieces of 2x4’s or a milk crate nearby to support the bumper as we remove it if you are working alone. Place  the support object under either edge of the bumper so it doesn’t drop when we remove it.

Unplug the connector on the driver side, inside the bumper cover. Slide the red tab back (towards the right), then press in to unclip it. 

Start at a wheel well, and pull the bumper away from the car. Now repeat on the opposite fender. Then pull the center of the bumper forward to release it. Lift the bumper off and set it on the object you have to support it. Unplug any wiring harness if applicable. 

If your car has headlight washers, press the blue button and detach the hose clips on the back of the bumper. Have a bucket ready to catch the washer fluid. Make note of the rotation of the connectors and the clips that retain the washer line. Pull the hose out of the clips along the front of the bumper, and set it in the bucket. Now remove the bumper and set it aside so we don’t scratch it. 

Remove the plastic shrouds for the Auxiliary coolers. The horns are slightly in the way of the splitter rods & brackets. Unplug the connector, remove the top nut on the horn and horn bracket and set the horn aside. 

Remove the OEM rear tray. There are a few T25 and T30 torx that hold it in place. 

Remove the torx screws that hold the front tray to the bumper. Then remove the black tray from the bumper cover. This is retained by clips once the screws are removed. 

Two areas need to be notched for clearance around the side rods and lower bracket. This image shows the location of the notches. The following steps will provide more detail. 

These notches are slightly oversized to make bumper install easier. We are providing measurements as an aid. This does not need to be perfect. 

Rod clearance:

• Measure 20mm down from the tab with a hole. draw a parallel line to the seam where the gloss black starts. 

• Draw a 40mm line along the seam. 

• Draw a line from there to the edge of the bumper. It should be perpendicular to the green line. 

 This endpoint should land about 15mm from the slot in the bumper cover. 

Cut out the section we just outlined. 

Bracket clearance:

• Draw a line vertically from the tab with a hole to the seam of the bumper. 

• Draw a 40 mm line along the seam. 

• Draw a line from that endpoint out to the edge of the bumper. It should be perpendicular to the first line. Approximately 90mm long. 

Cut out the section we just outlined. 

The car we are photographing has an aftermarket impact bar. The OEM bar will be the same. Place some painters tape on the outside edge of the impact bar. Remove the outside lower bolt that goes through the impact bar into the frame horn. 16mm socket. 

With a clamp, hold the upper bracket onto the side of the impact bar. We will align it in a later step. 

Reinstall the impact bar bolt in finger tight through the angle bracket off the splitter bracket. 

This angle bracket is just to aid in alignment, it is not meant to be structural. 

Slide the included temporary shim in between the impact bar flange and the splitter bracket. This will help align the bracket plumb to the car. (yellow shown, yours will be black). Tighten the impact bar bolt (16mm socket) and clamp. 

Check that the bracket is perpendicular to the impact bar tube when standing in front of the car. 

Use a transfer punch to mark the hole center. 

If you don't have a transfer punch, use a 10mm drill bit. Spin it in the drill for a few revolutions to mark center of the hole on the impact bar. DONT START DRILL WITH THIS SIZE. 

Switch to a pilot bit and drill through first. Step up 2-4 drill bit sizes until you reach the  For OEM impact bars - drill up to a 13.5mm hole for the Rivnut. 

For aftermarket impact bars - drill up to 11mm for a through bolt. 

Install the rivnut. Ensure that the flange is making contact with the impact bar all the way around. If not, the riv-nut is not crimped far enough. 

Bolt the bracket onto the impact bar. Again, check alignment with the included shim before tightening all four of the bolts. 

Assemble the lower outside of the bracket.  Slide an M10 bolt in the hole and slot. The lower bracket should be outside of the upper bracket. 

(pre-production lower bracket shown, yours should have less holes)

Install the longer set of rods on the side of the brackets. The barrel should be 8-8.25" long. 

The pan head bolt should be used on the bracket end. The countersunk bolt will be used on the blade end. 

Lift the blade into place. Thread in the four flanged head M10 bolts to hold it in place. Then install the 2 outside M8 countersunk bolts for the side rods. The rear two holes are for the rear rods. We will attach them in a later step. 

Almost there! Just a few more details to wrap up. 

The horn bracket needs to be modified to  provide clearance for the splitter bracket. See next image for detail. 

Take note of the orientation. With the welded nut facing you, the bracket should be bent up where it widens - marked with the dotted line. 

You can use a vice, 2 sets of pliers, or clamp it between two blocks of wood and hammer it to bend where intended. 

Install horns on both sides with the bent bracket. The horn should be remounted on the bottom of the bracket. 

Look up in front of the fender liner, towards the frame horn. Locate the stud on the bottom of the horn. Driver side shown. 

Remove one clevis ends from one end of the shorter rod set. (7.25-7.5" long tube set)

Install a serrated nut with the flange towards the car frame horn, then a lock washer, and clevis end onto the stud coming out of the frame horn. 

Passenger side shown. Tighten the clevis end until it is about 15 degrees past parallel to the frame horn. 

This does not need to be exact. The rod end can handle some mis alignment. Then install a rod, pin and cotter pin. 

Slide the longer flanged pan head bolt up through the strake, blade, then into the clevis. 

Check the two M10 bolts on the bottom edge of the top bracket. They need to be slightly loose for this step. One hole is the pivot point, the other is slotted to allow a few degrees of adjustment. 

Place your angle finder on the ground between the front and rear wheels to zero it out. 

If you are working on ramps, the rear of the car needs to be lifted up, or the front removed from the ramps.

Place the angle finder on the front edge of the blade, above and parallel with the strake orientation. 

Green line represents ground plane

Red line represents blade angle

Tighten the four M10 bolts on the brackets to hold this position!

The bumper can be installed with the splitter installed. Tip the bumper forward, insert the lower front edge inside the air dam, then rotate the wheel well edge back to align the top of the bumper with the bottom of the headlight, and mounting points on the center. 

• Remove the 2 rear M8 Flange pan heads for the rear rods. 

• Remove the subframe panel bolts (If installed).

• Remove the 2 side M8 countersunk bolts for the side rods

• Remove the 4 M10 Flange head bolts for the brackets/blade.